Iowa’s99…Guthrie County
From the outset of Iowa’s99, my plans and expectations have never quite turned out as intended, possibly a result of not fully knowing what to expect or even how it would look. That is just one of the unexpected joys of this project. My very first county yielded not just beautiful places to photograph but valuable connections with that county’s conservation board, a week in a yurt, a newspaper article and a memorable conversation with an historian. I knew then that I should either relinquish my expectations or spend the next several years missing out on opportunities that I cannot begin to imagine are available to me.
In June of last year, I headed out on another photo day, this time to Guthrie County. Before I go on a photo day, I spend time researching the county; its topography and history, and based on my research I choose a few locations and plan a route. This photo day was no exception, but I’ve learned to head out without an open mind; to embrace the excitement that comes from not knowing exactly how the day is going to unfold.
Guthrie County is defined not only by its scenery -rolling hills, carved valleys, wide skies and vibrant fields-but by the feeling it gives you when you’re there. Enchanting, inspiring, and unhurried, it’s the kind of place that invites exploration and rewards those who take the time to wander, listen and connect.
Located directly west of Des Moines, Guthrie County is a 593 square mile area situated on the north side of Interstate 80. While it is mostly rural, it offers charming towns, a rich history and kind residents who are proud of where they live. Evidenced by my first stop at B&B Marketplace in Panora, Iowa where I enjoyed some shopping, and a delightful lavender and honey latte. I also had the privilege of meeting the owner, Candy, and one of her customers, Laura, a master gardener and member of the local garden club. Both took the time to listen to me explain my project and offer insights about locations I was planning to visit and urged me to make a stop at Springbrook State Park, if I had the time.
Given their enthusiastic recommendation I put Springbrook at the top of my list and had no trouble figuring out why they encouraged me to check it out. Managed by the DNR, Springbrook is 930 acres of trails, timber, and all the amenities you could want for a fun family get-a-way. It’s one of those places I wish I had known about when my kids were little and we were in our camping phase. On this day I found myself admiring the stone shelter at the beach along with a fairy-tale-like stone bridge. The stormy skies that kept rolling in and out only added to the unique ambience of structures, that I’m pretty sure were built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930’s and have been well maintained.
Photographing the scene, the stone structure with its dark brown trim, a line of trees on either side of the wide steps leading to the beach, I couldn’t help but wish it was fall. The colors would make for a striking scene of something that is often quite visually bland. Deserted on this spring day, I could picture sandcastles, beach towels, and coolers scattered about. Teenagers hanging out on the shelter patio, moms chasing down the littles with sunscreen…Idyllic comes to mind, and as much as I love Iowa’s parks it’s not a term I find myself using frequently but, in this case, I believe it works.
Before heading out to my next stop I took a drive around the large picnic area on the northeast corner of the park. A perfect place for frisbee or a game of football amongst friends. The large pines creating perfect pockets for picnics or an escape on those hot summer evenings. This is one of those spaces I would love to retreat to for a long walk when the sky is gray and the rain is soft and steady.
I am often tempted away from the direct route by curvy or intriguing roads, signs or farm buildings. On this occasion it was mix of the spring storms and a road that I couldn’t resist. I left the parks main entrance and followed the curvy two lane that skirts along its southwestern edge. From there the road, 160th Rd. to be exact, straightens out a bit and ends at Highway 25 where I headed south in search of Bundt Prairie.
If you have not spent much time driving around Guthrie County, you might be surprised to learn that it offers some great views of the soft hills and carved valleys. Setting aside my directions I leaned into my wanderer self and noticed another round of storms brewing off in the west. At the same time, I came across one of those large, land for sale signs and found myself wanting to check it out. In a rare moment of serendipity, a large open gravel lot presented itself as the perfect turn around. Even more serendipitous, when I turned onto the gravel road leading to the land for sale I couldn’t help but smile at its name, Nice Ave.
Turns out the land, nearly 100 acres, was bordered on the east by Nice Ave., on the south by 190th Street and on the west by a large curve of highway 25. Nice Ave., offered a perfect viewing spot of the rainstorms slowly inching my way across the hilly landscape to the west. Adding to the providence of the moment, Bundt Prairie just happened to be a 3-acre plot carved out of the corner of Nice Ave. and 190th Street. Some of the last native prairie in Iowa to never see a plow, it used to also be the sight of an old one room schoolhouse. At the time of my visit, too soon into the season, only a few cone flowers were blooming but it’s said to have a variety of native plants and grasses with some of the root systems going as deep as 15 feet.
My time on Nice Ave., probably an hour in total, spent mostly watching and photographing the storms, had me rethinking my project objective and wondering if I was being too structured. With the parks as my guide could I also begin to share more about the county and my experience within it? Was I selling the experience of the whole short by not embracing and sharing a part of the journey that gives me the most satisfaction? The journey itself.
I concluded my visit in Guthrie County with a stop at Lenon Mill Park. Situated on the Racoon River, just on the outskirts of Panora, Iowa, this quaint little park offers camping, fishing and river access. Worn out from my time at Springbrook and still a bit enchanted by the views from Nice Ave., I arrived at Lenon Mill distracted, otherwise I may have spotted the great blue heron standing near the old dam, fishing in the rush of water much sooner. Fortunately, he was still there after my quick look around. Another wonderful highlight adding to a day of surprises in Guthrie County.
